Havana. The perfect backdrop for a fifties movie. Narrow streets between high walled houses. Wooden doors right there on the edge of the street, hiding surprisingly spacious living rooms. With wooden rocking chairs on tiled floors.
We stroll the streets. Coming across half a dog right next to the
pavement. But then 'ooh!' and `aah!` about the beautiful dilapidated old house
on the next corner. We take pictures, too many. But who cares. This is
a here and now that we want to remember.
Havana. City of plazas. Beautiful Plaza Vieja with beautifully restored
buildings. A plaza almost to perfect for Cuba. Where we sat drinking
beers at the microbrewery listening to salsa sounds from a great little band which, unfortunately, later vanished in the deafening sound of loudspeakers from a across
the plain, preparing for a long night full of music and dance.
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City of fascinating old cars, all shiny and with drivers in cream colored
straw hats. At 25 cuc an hour we got driven through the streets of
Havana in a lilac and white cabrio by a spanish, and only spanish, speaking chauffeur. Sitting deep and comforable in the white leather seats
and forgetting about the life that we actually live somewhere in the
future of where we currently are.
Visiting 1-cuc-entrance-fee-museums where you unexpectedly get
swept away by a Spanish speaking guide who, around the first corner,
tells you that it is quite okay to take pictures even though you did not buy the 5-cuc-camera-allowed-entrance ticket.
Chatting to friendly locals on the street who know someone in Amsterdam
and tells you exactly where music is being played and ask questions about
your plans for the rest of your Cuba trip and then wonders whether you
might help them with a donation to buy milk for their baby. Ordinary happy people living their ordinary happy lives. Doing day to day chores amidst curious tourists walking by.
Strolling along the Malecòn in the late afternoon. Watching fishermen
gather something for 'la cena' (dinner) and getting splashed by a
not so unexpected wave crushing over the weatherd seawall.
Turning around to a magical picture of activity shining against the
a back light of the setting sun.
Spending time waiting for the right moment toe take the perfect picture with just another old car in the foreground. And then... being shocked to reality when a dutch connexxion bus in original colours and with original destination signs drives by .....
Getting lured away to the so called 'Cooperativo de Cuba', the perfect
place to buy Cuban cigars at special prices. Even though it is only a
tiny room at the back of just another dilapidated house. A box of 800 dollar
Cohibas for just 300 dollar! Getting to smell them for free. Why on
earth would you say know. Slipping away with 'no fumar \ we don't smoke', creating an
escape route for the German tourists stuck in the same trap.
Taking
a 4 CUC ride in a bicycle taxi of a small thin legged man, peddling over
the hill and trying to convince us to ride with him again afterwards
because its really not safe in the streets.
Staring
through wooden window frames at rows of tobacco rolling fingers, fast
and efficient. First gathering a heap of fine inner leaves and then
skillfully rolling them into multiple outer, stronger leave layers.
Smoothing the one end to a perfect little round dome.
Afterwards
walking across Centro Habana to the Vedado neighbourhood to the huge Plaza de la Revoluciòn.
Taking a break against the wall at the feet of José Martí to get a
drink against dehidration in the burning bright sunlight. Staring
across the parking area at the huge murals of Che Guevara and
Camilo Cienfuegos, still watching over the results of the revolution they
faught for.
Staying at Casa Pablo in Call Refugio. Our first Cuban Casa Particular breakfast of little fat
finger bananas, sweet pineapples and my all time favourite, golden orange papaya.
Freshly squeezed papaya juice, fresh warm bread rolls and eggs fritos
(fried) or tortilla (omelet).
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| Entrance to Casa Pablo accross the street |
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| Casa Pablo Courtyard |
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| Our room |
Taking a taxi through the tunnel to the other side of the bay to visit the lovely Fortaleza de San Carlos De La Cabaña and later, after a private casa lunch, Castillo De Los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos del Morro. From where we could stare across the bay at a panoramic picture of beautiful Havana, the complete left side from the Paseo de Martí to the harbour and to the right as far as we can see, almost to where the playas begin.
Going back to our Casa to pack and stroll the streets one last time before we leave for Veñales.
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